BACK IN THE IONIAN 2016

This year we decided to fly the quickest route possible to our boat in Corfu. Emirates took a total of 18 hours and then another 2 hours to Corfu with Aegean. No jetlag, just a little tired.
Our boat had been delivered and moored at Naok marina ready for us to settle in for a good nights sleep. For some reason the sails had not been put on which was a little disappointing. This was just one of the problems sent to test us!

Next morning we set about getting the sails on and busied ourselves with checking water, unpacking (of course we brought too much AGAIN!) and solving 'small' issues. First we discovered that the winch motor had jammed, then that the 3 year old battery was all but useless. Fun times and a lot of Euros later, everything was fixed.

Corfu is a delightful city to be in. We love coming back each year just to wander through the streets, to discover more quaint shops and tavernas.

We made a couple of forays to the local market to pick up fruit and vegetables and once again we were amazed at the prices and quality. Strawberries are to die for!!

Saskia would love it here! ($2.20 punnet)

So many olives 2E /500g

The plants were soooo cheap - wish they were at home

Mothers day was memorable as 100s of men, women and children marched through the town, carrying balloons and pushing prams. Should happen at home maybe?

We thought we were seasoned travellers but our one experience at an out of the way taverna showed how gullible we are. Next time we'll check the menu more closely!

All the children come out on Sundays

CEPHALONIA ISLAND

EUFIMIA

After our rather disappointing stay on Nisis Ithaki, we decided to sail around the southern tip and head for Eufimia on the larger Nisis Cephalonia (Island). As luck would have it we motored much of the way with the wind in our face hoping that our return journey through the channel separating the two islands would be easier. It wasn't.
Eufimia was delightful, large enough to satisfy our shopping and food supply needs and with good tavernas and more importantly power and water (11E).

The square with the HUGE olive tree root!

The houses are beautifully maintained and as usual there are bougainvillas everywhere. It appears to be a very 'twee' sort of marina port, with streets very clean and tidy. Although costs were about the same as everywhere else, it seems the locals are very conscious about impressing the tourists!

Our boat moored right next to the promenade wharf which made the whole experience fairly pleasant.

Night time along the promenade

Austral sitting very comfortably

Some greek communities really know how to keep the visitors happy - this city even has an official sign indicating where to buy Gyros! Amazing!

FISKHADO

From Eufimia we tried to sail up the island to Fiskhado but had to settle for motoring once again.

Here we found a very up-market kind of marina and port but without the pleasantness of Eufimia with costs much higher and more touristy.










We moored up against the promenade and discovered that no power or water was available and that the power bollards were taped up and out of order. Pity, we might have stayed longer!

Perhaps the many fishing boats had greater priority.











As with every place we visit, cats are ever present, in shop windows, on streets, seated in restaurants and generally tolerated as part of everyday life.

 From Fiskhado we left next morning for Nidri on Nisis Levkas.

VATHI (ITHACA)

We'd heard many stories about the island of Ithaca and how Homer's Odyssey attributed many of Odysseus' voyages to this area. There are many references to both Homer and Odysseus (Ulysses) around the island although it's hard to know exactly which are authentic or just myths. We decided to hire a car and travel up the narrow mountain roads past Stavros at Exogi to visit Homer's school (or the crumbling remains of it).

a well in the ruins

Part of the ancient site (although these looked like they were more recent add-ons)

The ruins of Homer's school

The ruins were just that, although some areas where the huge stones remain appear to have withstood some 3000 yrs of neglect and looked very believable. Behind the School's ruins was the beginning of a stone path that headed up the mountain. We followed it up and
 felt fairly impressed with our efforts to climb a 700 ft rocky path to nearly the top.

The ancient rocky steps

From the top of the mountain steps you could see across the bay and beyond. It's a pity that Greek tourism has not made more of these sites. They seem to just be forgotten.

We did not really enjoy our time in Vathi marina. It is a large port that services the island and does not appear to concentrate on tourism. No water or power made our choice of just a couple of days easy.

Vathi

Looking across to Cephalonia

The main street of Stavros

Frikes

The plaques commemorating the resistance in 1944

We enjoyed our car trip to the rest of Ithaca especially Frikes and a small village in the centre of the island, Stavros.

Frikes is a quaint marina tucked in a bay on the north coast and appears to serve mostly local boats.
It was also a sight where during WW2 local Greek citizens made a valiant attempt to protect the town from the invading German forces who at first were repelled and who then later captured the town, killing those who resisted.

SIVOTA on LEVKAS

Sivota is a delightful port. Located at the southern part of Levkas Island, the port is a perfect spot to stay for more than a day.

Chicken, Greek salad and grilled sardines

We moored at Stavros' landing and were pleasantly surprised by the assistance given by the local taverna. Power and water is provided free by the restaurant in return we dine there at night. This simple solution is terrific, both parties gain.

The meals were very enjoyable and good value for money.

Stavros Taverna

 The bay is utterly beautiful. From the restaurant we could see the entire bay full of boats and local restaurants.The local tavernas are covered in pelargoniums, roses and so many brightly coloured bougainvillias.

The amazing rubber tree growing across the ceiling of Stavros' restaurant

Our boat on the left with the bright blue bimini.

 It appears that Sivota is the main base for the Sailing Holidays flotilla. There were about 50 of these when we arrived and we've made a point of NOT going where they plan to sail!
Most left the next day and the bars and restaurants were again quietly pleasant.

Our next stop is the Vathi, on the island of Ithaca, some 20 miles south.

MITIKAS

From Spartakhori to Mitikas is around 9 miles and so we set out in the morning to reach the town on the other side of the bay by lunchtime. The trip was amazing. We seem to be rediscovering the fun and excitement in sailing each time we venture out.


With the gennaker out we managed to get 6.5kts from the same amount of wind.


The boat slid effortlessly through the water with the wind on a beam reach. There's always something satisfying about sailing with such a beautifully coloured sail. It's as though the wind is whispering gently yet at the same time pushing and pulling hard.

 We motored the last mile into the small port of Mitikas and moored at the rather empty wharf. Still there is no water or power which is a real pity as the town itself has so much potential but cannot attract boats to visit and help fund the local businesses. Lunchtime, as with most Mediterranean ports, meant that the streets were deserted except for the odd taverna and cafes. We explored a little then settled back in the boat for our siesta.

The newly painted Orthodox Church

Towards the Bay

The sign says NO tractors, bikes or cars !!!!!!

After a few hours David and I decided to find George, the ex-Canadian we met last year and who had  returned 13 years ago to restart his family's small cafe. If only the rest of the population had his belief and determination for the town's future; perhaps they are happy to keep it as it is.


Once again we spent an hour discussing the Greek political situation, how it's hurting everyone and how the EU cannot provide solutions to the national disaster that's happening.










Our last coffee was overlooking the beautiful Inland Sea with mist gently hovering above the mirrored water. So beautiful!