CEPHALONIA ISLAND

EUFIMIA

After our rather disappointing stay on Nisis Ithaki, we decided to sail around the southern tip and head for Eufimia on the larger Nisis Cephalonia (Island). As luck would have it we motored much of the way with the wind in our face hoping that our return journey through the channel separating the two islands would be easier. It wasn't.
Eufimia was delightful, large enough to satisfy our shopping and food supply needs and with good tavernas and more importantly power and water (11E).

The square with the HUGE olive tree root!

The houses are beautifully maintained and as usual there are bougainvillas everywhere. It appears to be a very 'twee' sort of marina port, with streets very clean and tidy. Although costs were about the same as everywhere else, it seems the locals are very conscious about impressing the tourists!

Our boat moored right next to the promenade wharf which made the whole experience fairly pleasant.

Night time along the promenade

Austral sitting very comfortably

Some greek communities really know how to keep the visitors happy - this city even has an official sign indicating where to buy Gyros! Amazing!

FISKHADO

From Eufimia we tried to sail up the island to Fiskhado but had to settle for motoring once again.

Here we found a very up-market kind of marina and port but without the pleasantness of Eufimia with costs much higher and more touristy.










We moored up against the promenade and discovered that no power or water was available and that the power bollards were taped up and out of order. Pity, we might have stayed longer!

Perhaps the many fishing boats had greater priority.











As with every place we visit, cats are ever present, in shop windows, on streets, seated in restaurants and generally tolerated as part of everyday life.

 From Fiskhado we left next morning for Nidri on Nisis Levkas.

VATHI (ITHACA)

We'd heard many stories about the island of Ithaca and how Homer's Odyssey attributed many of Odysseus' voyages to this area. There are many references to both Homer and Odysseus (Ulysses) around the island although it's hard to know exactly which are authentic or just myths. We decided to hire a car and travel up the narrow mountain roads past Stavros at Exogi to visit Homer's school (or the crumbling remains of it).

a well in the ruins

Part of the ancient site (although these looked like they were more recent add-ons)

The ruins of Homer's school

The ruins were just that, although some areas where the huge stones remain appear to have withstood some 3000 yrs of neglect and looked very believable. Behind the School's ruins was the beginning of a stone path that headed up the mountain. We followed it up and
 felt fairly impressed with our efforts to climb a 700 ft rocky path to nearly the top.

The ancient rocky steps

From the top of the mountain steps you could see across the bay and beyond. It's a pity that Greek tourism has not made more of these sites. They seem to just be forgotten.

We did not really enjoy our time in Vathi marina. It is a large port that services the island and does not appear to concentrate on tourism. No water or power made our choice of just a couple of days easy.

Vathi

Looking across to Cephalonia

The main street of Stavros

Frikes

The plaques commemorating the resistance in 1944

We enjoyed our car trip to the rest of Ithaca especially Frikes and a small village in the centre of the island, Stavros.

Frikes is a quaint marina tucked in a bay on the north coast and appears to serve mostly local boats.
It was also a sight where during WW2 local Greek citizens made a valiant attempt to protect the town from the invading German forces who at first were repelled and who then later captured the town, killing those who resisted.

SIVOTA on LEVKAS

Sivota is a delightful port. Located at the southern part of Levkas Island, the port is a perfect spot to stay for more than a day.

Chicken, Greek salad and grilled sardines

We moored at Stavros' landing and were pleasantly surprised by the assistance given by the local taverna. Power and water is provided free by the restaurant in return we dine there at night. This simple solution is terrific, both parties gain.

The meals were very enjoyable and good value for money.

Stavros Taverna

 The bay is utterly beautiful. From the restaurant we could see the entire bay full of boats and local restaurants.The local tavernas are covered in pelargoniums, roses and so many brightly coloured bougainvillias.

The amazing rubber tree growing across the ceiling of Stavros' restaurant

Our boat on the left with the bright blue bimini.

 It appears that Sivota is the main base for the Sailing Holidays flotilla. There were about 50 of these when we arrived and we've made a point of NOT going where they plan to sail!
Most left the next day and the bars and restaurants were again quietly pleasant.

Our next stop is the Vathi, on the island of Ithaca, some 20 miles south.

MITIKAS

From Spartakhori to Mitikas is around 9 miles and so we set out in the morning to reach the town on the other side of the bay by lunchtime. The trip was amazing. We seem to be rediscovering the fun and excitement in sailing each time we venture out.


With the gennaker out we managed to get 6.5kts from the same amount of wind.


The boat slid effortlessly through the water with the wind on a beam reach. There's always something satisfying about sailing with such a beautifully coloured sail. It's as though the wind is whispering gently yet at the same time pushing and pulling hard.

 We motored the last mile into the small port of Mitikas and moored at the rather empty wharf. Still there is no water or power which is a real pity as the town itself has so much potential but cannot attract boats to visit and help fund the local businesses. Lunchtime, as with most Mediterranean ports, meant that the streets were deserted except for the odd taverna and cafes. We explored a little then settled back in the boat for our siesta.

The newly painted Orthodox Church

Towards the Bay

The sign says NO tractors, bikes or cars !!!!!!

After a few hours David and I decided to find George, the ex-Canadian we met last year and who had  returned 13 years ago to restart his family's small cafe. If only the rest of the population had his belief and determination for the town's future; perhaps they are happy to keep it as it is.


Once again we spent an hour discussing the Greek political situation, how it's hurting everyone and how the EU cannot provide solutions to the national disaster that's happening.










Our last coffee was overlooking the beautiful Inland Sea with mist gently hovering above the mirrored water. So beautiful!

SPARTAKHORI

Our sail down to the Lefkas Channel was spectacular. 6kts all the way on a beam reach, with the sun above and the new sail behaving beautifully. The trip seemed to go much quicker than expected and so we reached the channel with half and hour to spare. As the rotating bridge only opens on the hour we sailed around the bay and then waited patiently to get through. The passage to Lefkas and to the the end of the narrow channel was much easier this year as the dredging was very effective. Boats need to motor though within a 20m channel and this year a poor unsuspecting yachtie decided to go around the dredge. Being stuck in the mud is not a pretty look! Been there, done that!

                                 

Once out into the Inland Sea everything felt like we'd never left. The sun shone, the sea rippled and the sails went up. Dave totally enjoyed the feeling of freedom on the water. He could not stop smiling.

That night we headed for Spartakhori, a small bay on Meganisi Island.  We were surprised to see the old fingers nearly empty and the main wharf free to use (with water and electricity). The Porto Spilia restaurant provides all this for nothing and in return we dine at his place. A great service we really appreciated.

Spartakhori Bay from the town above Porto Spilia

The nights on the water are quiet, and still with usually a cool breeze to help sleeping although this will definitely change once the June summer days kick in.

We stayed for two nights then sailed up to Nidri and then across the Inland sea to Mitikas, some 9 miles away. Dave was pretty pleased with himself (although I a little less so) as we hit 7.4kts on a beam reach with both main and a reef in the headsail. He was quite amazed.