POZZUOLI and NAPLES

Approaching Pozzuoli and Naples

At last we feel confident that the weather has really settled down and poses no risk, even though it can be a little too calm for David's liking!

Our run to POZZUOLI was uneventful although our constant checking the bilge was really annoying.The more we spend time on the water the more we realise that life as a sailor is not meant to be without it's little trials. There is ALWAYS something that goes wrong and so much time trying to solve it.

POZZUOLI is a fairly depressed outer suburb/town near Naples. We had no idea what the marina would be like and ended up in the very upmarket Marina servicing the 50ft cruisers. The area around the marina was pretty seedy and grubby but we managed to work out how to get around and spent the 2 days going to and from Naples by train and bus, exploring museums, markets and of course, more churches.

BIG rum babas

We'd heard that it was unsafe, violent etc, but we had no problems, in fact we found the locals helpful and friendly. The fact that we were back safe in the marina by 8pm may have had something to do with it!


 
The degree of excess and wealth in the many churches was overwhelming. The contrast between the rich and poor centuries ago must have been huge and from what we could see is still evident today.

The rum BaBa cakes

One of the fish stalls in a side street

The Rum BaBas are amazing! They originated in Naples and so they must be very proud of them.Some are so huge and there are even mad looking cakes made from them.

The best imaginable coffee is so cheap (1euro) and fresh vegetables, fruit and salami, very affordable. We eat well, and have found the lunch menu, (first course pasta,  veal main course, coffee and beer) incredibly good value at 6 or 7euros ($8-$9).

The amazing Pasta shop

  








Our legs have taken a beating with walking so much and so we gave in just this once and took the "Hop on Hop off" bus.

The streets of Naples are cobbled, narrow and full of shops, markets and people. We had a great time exploring the coffee bars, music shops and dress shops, although my taste for sparkly, studded gear has definitely disappeared!!


And then of course are the multitude of gift shops selling everything from images of the queen, footy stars and local heroes.

The pope leading the throng of miniature people

So many small models of everything imaginable

The 'tripe' shop

Looking back to Naples

We left Naples feeling very different from the last time we visited in the 80's. Although the streets are still full of rubbish and the population is still smoking itself to an early death, the city made us welcome and prepared to even visit another time..............

SAN FELICE CIRCEO AND GAETA

After a rather long stay at Porto Di Roma we faced our demons and set sail for the next port south – San Felice Cerceo, the 50 mile sail taking 7 ^½ hours  in mostly fine conditions.

Approaching Circeo

The long awaited good weather was a wonderful change from the nasty Mistral that nearly had both of us giving up and becoming landlubbers!

We arrived at Circeo mid afternoon and after rather hastily being given a ‘bad’ mooring (as the secretary called it) we headed straight for another strong Italian coffee. 

The marina

We asked about a meal at the local restaurant and were given a hand written on the spot menu. Apparently all the locals know what is 'normale' and don't need a menu.

Circeo is clearly a quaint little town that appears to have been adopted by the wealthy Italian and Russian tourists. The pontoons were very rudimentary though many of the boats moored were extremely impressive. More than once our depth sounder read ‘0’ in the badly silted up harbour. Still, we made it in and out ok.

Next morning we set off for Gaeta.

Approaching the Gaeta Bluff

 

The NATO Naval headquarters at Gaeta

We arrived after another uneventful day (wind 5 -10 kts, temp 23^o and were given assistance to enter a much nicer berth. David has nearly perfected reversing and so we had no hitches getting into the space.

Our berth 4th on the right (blue Genoa)

Gaeta is a delightful little town. Just big enough to have all the services you’d want, yet quaint enough to make you feel at home. The cobbled stone streets of the old part of the city were bustling with activity in the late afternoon, tiny shops selling everything from fruit to home made pasta and Italian high fashion???

We thoroughly enjoyed our short stay in the town and could live here in another life. Once again the coffee was beautiful and sooo cheap -1euro. 

When we left Gaeta we stopped to get diesel from the 'Gazoil station'. The attendant seemed to have not a care in the world as he rolled a cigarette and took his chances.