AGNI BAY

We left Benitses without any sentiment; it was not a place we want to love. 

The trip up the Corfu coast was pleasantly diverting as we pondered the stories behind the occasional tunnel dug into the cliff face, the history of the Achilleon palace whose gardens come down to the shoreline, the new fort at Corfu, 'Mon Repos' the huge mansion where Phil the Greek was born, and so on. 

The fort at Corfu Town

Mon Repos - Prince Phillip's birthplace

Our boat at the end of the small jetty

 

Soon we dropped anchor in Agni Bay and at the beckoning of the tavern staff, tied up at the end of the jetty at Taverna Nikolas.

We knew we were expected to lunch there and so forewent Toula’s to have whitebait cooked by Nikolas’ wife, Voula (absolutely true).

the bay

Boats anchored in Agni bay

Children playing by the taverna

Toula's taverna

We spent the afternoon resting, Anne went for a swim, and then we did as little as possible in the heat of the day.








Agni Bay is very pretty. The hills all around are covered in conifers and olives. There is a sprinkling of villas, but the bay appears to be quite isolated. However,  around the corners but out of sight are large hotels.  Nikolas is smart enough to offer a free boat taxi to both of them and so his taverna was full for lunch and dinner. The tourists are mostly British and there seems to be a tradition of remembering Nikolas and his family as he remembers the tourists and their family; very twee, but somehow nice.

Now at dusk, the sea is calm apart from the roll of wake from passing boats every now and then.  The chatter of diners drifts across the water, swallows twitter and fend off cats near the tavernas, Greek music is playing in the background. The 6 sailing boats including 2 large Lagoons drift around their anchor chains and the mistiness over the Albanian hills is starting to obscure the town opposite us, some 10 miles away.

We are relaxed, renewed and resolved to live this life for as long as we can lift the sails.

BENITSES

 We had heard many stories about the small port of Benitses, just south of Corfu Town and so decided to visit for a day or two. It was disappointing to say the least - no power,no water, fairly grubby and a rather difficult harbour to moor in. Apparently the local authority (govt,council etc) decided not to finish the marina, and so everything is in place but nothing works. As well most of the power units are broken.

Many of the boats around us were very poorly kept, some looked like they permanently parked there. Perhaps the lack of good facilities, ie free, mooring attracts poorly kept boats. Anyway, the stay was very ordinary.

The marina

One saving grace - the fruit and vegs are great

The town square

We hired a bike again and took off into the mountains and villages surrounding Benitses.

Travelling through the countryside beyond the east cost was amazing. Small plots of land and picturesque farms dotted the valleys. It was easy to see how you could fall in love with the rural lifestyle.

We continued on to the west side of Corfu, down to the rather touristy beaches, had a bite to eat and left feeling a little overwhelmed by the 'beach' culture - a bit too commercially developed!

Our last memories of Benitses were not so positive. Our chain was caught on another boat's  anchor and after an embarrassing lift we were able to motor out of the marina on our way to hopefully happier times at Agni further north.

PARGA revisited

Parga and Valtos Bay always brings back great memories and so we decided to drop in on our homeward journey. Anchoring was perfect, the sea was calm and the weather quite warm.

Our boat (2nd from right)

One thing we've learned about this part of Greece is the potential for sudden changes of weather. Sure enough, just as we had finished eating, a massive summer storm hit the bay. Boats dragged their anchors, one collided with another (both were very brand new), rain poured down and generally things were a bit scary. The storm lasted about 1 hour then disappeared as quickly as it it came. Our boat just stood firm, the anchor as solid a rock and no harm was done. An interesting experience!

SPILIA

We had checked out Spilia while riding around Meganisi and decided it was a rather beautiful spot to visit after Mitikas and so, we sailed into the small privately run marina and settled in for the night. We had heard that mooring, electricity and water were free at the port as long as you bought a meal at the restaurant. We did so and had a brilliant, relatively inexpensive meal (20 Euro for two). We would have had dinner at the restaurant anyway so this was a good solution. David had Greek lamb casserole baked in an alfoil packet that was utterly heavenly. Mine was the tastiest stuffed aubergine.

Our boat at the dock

 We decided to stay another day, and catch up with the second lot of curtain making and generally take it easy.

The excellent marina restaurant

After 2 nights we decided to spend a day just sailing across the inland sea catching as much wind as possible from Meganisi to Nidri and then back to Spilia. We sailed and sailed, touching 6.5 kts in the most beautiful beam reach conditions. Once again David was a happy, happy boy!!

A rather large 'Wally' next to our boat

Late in the afternoon we headed back to Spilia, moored at the next wharf (cost 5 Euro electricity and water) and settled in for the night By 6pm the seas had turned and we experienced a massive storm, raging 30kt winds and generally unpleasant conditions. Thank goodness we were safely tucked up in the marina!

MITIKAS and KALAMOS

For some time, we've been fantasising about buying a house in Greece. Mitikas seemed to be a small port that might fit the bill and so, after locating a couple of places for sale on the internet, we sailed over to Mitikas to check out the real estate. It's a lovely, quiet little town, very much undiscovered in the Ionian area (no one seemed to know much about it) and perhaps for good reason. Apparently it's very popular with locals from the inland towns during summer and the tiny marina becomes unavailable to any visiting yachts.  As it was, there was limited space, no electricity or water and the town is positioned at the end of fierce north westerly winds that blow all summer. Probably not such a good place to be!
The sea level is about 20cms below land. I cant imagine how global warming will eventually affect the town.

The small restaurants were excellent. Many seemed to concentrate on traditional dishes and were delicious.

We spent some time chatting with the locals, who felt there town was missing out on the tourist progress being made in the Ionian because of too much complacency and bureaucracy.

KALAMOS

We had a brilliant sail to Kalamos where we took refuge from a summer gale that covered the boat in brown dust apparently brought on the winds from Africa. We walked up the steep roads above the marina to explore the town, but realised how difficult it would be to organise and carry every piece of wood and nail from the mainland.
That night we went to the marina restaurant for dinner but were told that they have no mastercard facilities. This would not be a problem as we could pay next time or even next year! Imagine this happening in Australia.

NIDRI

Our experiences in Nidri last year left us feeling that this was a port we could miss visiting in the future. Our visit had been during the hottest weather, tourists were everywhere and more importantly, our boat was berthed at a pontoon that ponged with sewerage outfall. We didn't expect great times this year.
How wrong we were. The weather was perfect (so no need for the air-con), the tourists were light on the ground and there was no sewerage to be seen. We stayed for 3 days with access to electricity and water and had a brilliant time enjoying the gyros(pita), coffee and spanikopita.

Every morning, the flowers were swept.

Amazing strawberries!

The Neilson pontoon

Out came my trusty sewing machine and the cabin curtains started to take shape. The original press-stud covers have always looked old and scrappy so now we nearly have blue full length blockouts (courtesy of Spotlight), perfectly sliding tracks and above all sun protection and privacy.

 Our first experiences with bike hiring in Vathi were incredibly positive, so another scooter later, we ventured to Lefkas,13 kms north. In the past, walking for hours always takes the joy out of exploring towns during the heat of the day. Riding is invigorating and gives you access to places beyond the immediate area you happen to land in.


From Nidri we sailed in perfect conditions to Mitika, a small port on the mainland.

TECHIES' CORNER

THE BATTERY MONITOR SAGA

When we bought the boat, the battery monitor didn’t work.

 “Never mind,” I said. “It won’t make any difference.

Three deep cycle batteries later I decided to try to fix it. I noticed that a small variable resistor was corroded and had fallen to pieces.  I was able to get an identical one from Jaycar and solder it into the printed circuit. It worked. Back on board the boat I installed it and happpily went about charging batteries and keeping an eye on them so that they didn’t overcharge (the cause of our defunct deep cycle batteries which was caused by our smart charger losing massive quantities of smartness)

I wasn’t entirely pleased with the crude and uncalibrated display and so searched aliexpress for voltmeters. 

Here’s an example: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/R1B1-Portable-Digital-Voltmeter-DC0-100V-Red-Light-LED-Panel-Voltage-Meter/1243447711.html

Total cost US$2.74. 

I bought three and housed them in a little box.  Each one goes to a different battery and I have put a switch on the common negative lead so that I can turn easily turn them off.  They are great.  

We can see how the motor alternators are working (see the Alternator saga), check how the wind generator is working and manage the dumb charger so that the batteries are kept in good condition.

All up less than $20 and a very happy outcome

THE ALTERNATOR SAGA

Last year our service battery alternator stopped working.  Unfortunately, we could only buy a replacement as the place we were in didn’t have anyone that could repair it. This year we set out, but soon noticed that the batteries weren’t getting charged (see the Battery Monitor Saga). 
So miles from nowhere and with the motor running, I took off the engine covers to have a look. All OK, but just to make sure, I pulled on each wire to see whether it was firm.  The active lead, which had a difficult-to-see terminal, was hanging loose.  The nut had fallen off (vibration).  Touching the wire on to the possible terminal created a strong spark on one and nothing on the other.  I took a punt that the alternator was working and that I wasn’t shorting it out. The new meters helped here too. 
So all I needed was a new nut. All the nuts in my little supply were too big, too small or imperial thread instead of metric.  I scoured the boat and eventually found a nut on a camera mount that worked. Off with the motor and on with the lead and nut.  The nut was tight because my sparking tests had damaged the thread, A gentle spannering solved that. 

Fingers crossed, motor on 13.5 volts on the voltmeters, an alternator purring away and batteries getting happy again. 

VATHI

We left Preveza early Friday morning and headed for one of our favourite ports, Vathi, on Meganisi Island.  Our impressions from last July were not changed. The town is a picturesque sanctuary for boats, protected from the strong northerlies with all the services and amenities you could wish for.

The esplanade near the boat

It was disappointing to discover the electricity had been discontinued because of an unpleasant dispute between the private ‘Odysseus’ marina and the local community. Apparently the town marina’s provision of electricity and water at a very reasonable price 5E-10E as opposed to the 40E charged at Odysseus was uncompetitive.

The solution, close down the town wharf!

Hopefully they’ll sort things out before we return next year.

This trip has been far less stressful than any other years.  The weather has been kinder, the wind more able to be enjoyed (not blowing in our face all the time) and we’ve had more adventures in the small towns adjacent to the ports. 

 

Hiring a motor scooter was a real plus. We zoomed up and down the valleys and mountains like a couple of teenagers, wind in the face, sharing the country lanes with mountain goats. 

Spartakori harbour

A tiny church in the middle of nowhere

Our road trips took us through the small lanes and villages of the island. You still find old women dressed in black, walking the streets carrying shopping or even sitting weaving and spinning. 

Although probably for tourists, the images and experiences were wonderful.

Meganisi is an absolutely beautiful island, yet to be exploited and spoiled by rampant tourism. The only problem for this and many of the islands in the Ionian is the temptation to allow the kitsch culture to take over.  

PREVEZA

We’ve never been totally enamoured of Preveza. Firstly because of the rather unpleasant memories of my falling off the boat onto the wharf last year (totally my own fault) and secondly it’s just not a very endearing city. We decided to moor in the Preveza marina this year instead of the town wharf, as we knew there was water and electricity on site and also the tidal swell would be much less. On arrival there was one spot left and as we tied up we were told we could only stay for a short time as this was where the charter boats came and they had priority. As it turned out it was also the only quay with water and we would have to move or raft up other boats when asked and so after 3 days we left unimpressed.

 

The marina

The town itself was a good walk away, but being health conscious ? we happily made the trip each day to shop and enjoy the cafes. The main esplanade was full of cafes and tourist shops all looking very empty and desperate for the summer crowds to start.

The main shopping street

The small lanes linking the esplanade to the main shopping street also seemed to be overflowing with empty chairs and tables with only owners and a few locals chatting, smoking and waiting.  For us the season is perfect, for the locals just another reflection of the a seasonal, tourist based economy. 

dinner at the Red Mullet

Usually we check the weather each morning but forgot to on our second trip out. As our luck would have it the rain poured down, came through our open hatches and soaked some of the bedding. We coped.

Our next stop is Vathi on Meganisi 

PARGA

Crossing from Gaios to Parga on the mainland was an absolute pleasure. We set the sails early in the run, started in a 6kt breeze and sailed at 3.5 kts. As we neared Parga the wind lifted and gusted to 15 kts as we scooted along at 6kts. David was ecstatic.

We sailed into Voulta bay next to Parga and found a perfect spot to drop anchor. Our memories of this little bay were revisited. The sea was calm, the boat rocked gently and we settled in for the night with 16 other boats.

Looking across Voulta bay to our boat anchored in the distance

Next morning we took the dinghy to shore and waited the few minutes to take the small ferry to Parga town around the corner.

The view across Parga town

The small church at the entrance to Parga

Another beautiful bougainvilla

The tourist season has not yet started and so the shops and streets were comfortably quiet.

In past visits around the middle of June, the Italian tourist invasion was in full swing with cafes full and beach umbrellas dotting the small beaches. 

Exploring the hilltop streets

Arriving early in May has certainly made a huge difference in many ways – the weather is perfect, the crowds are non-existent and there is plenty of room in the small bays and marinas.  

Our next stop is Prevesa, 4 hours south of Parga.

GAIOS

Gaios was our next stop on Paxos Island. We had a fantastic sail down the coast from Lakka hitting 6.5 kts in beautiful sunny weather. The small port was very enticing, everything was layback, no-one seemed to be in a hurry and both the locals and other yachties were extremely friendly We had a few hitches coming in to berth and people seemed to come from everywhere wanting to help us. The small town obviously is very proud of it's appearance, sweepers were out early each morning,rubbish was not to be seen and NO graff anywhere. 

The local houses are beautifully kept. We've never seen so much colour in the gardens, balconies and shops. It appeared to be bougainvilla heaven!

One of the many dockside restaurants

boys fishing next to our boat

Everywhere  were children, playing in the streets, riding bikes, fishing or just running around. We think there must have been a population explosion in the last few years or the Greeks just love having kids around.




The town even hung a  huge painted canvas over a not-so-good looking building to improve it's appearance!












We thoroughly enjoyed our stay in Gaios and felt very sad to leave.

The view across the channel