NIDRI

Our experiences in Nidri last year left us feeling that this was a port we could miss visiting in the future. Our visit had been during the hottest weather, tourists were everywhere and more importantly, our boat was berthed at a pontoon that ponged with sewerage outfall. We didn't expect great times this year.
How wrong we were. The weather was perfect (so no need for the air-con), the tourists were light on the ground and there was no sewerage to be seen. We stayed for 3 days with access to electricity and water and had a brilliant time enjoying the gyros(pita), coffee and spanikopita.

Every morning, the flowers were swept.

Amazing strawberries!

The Neilson pontoon

Out came my trusty sewing machine and the cabin curtains started to take shape. The original press-stud covers have always looked old and scrappy so now we nearly have blue full length blockouts (courtesy of Spotlight), perfectly sliding tracks and above all sun protection and privacy.

 Our first experiences with bike hiring in Vathi were incredibly positive, so another scooter later, we ventured to Lefkas,13 kms north. In the past, walking for hours always takes the joy out of exploring towns during the heat of the day. Riding is invigorating and gives you access to places beyond the immediate area you happen to land in.


From Nidri we sailed in perfect conditions to Mitika, a small port on the mainland.

TECHIES' CORNER

THE BATTERY MONITOR SAGA

When we bought the boat, the battery monitor didn’t work.

 “Never mind,” I said. “It won’t make any difference.

Three deep cycle batteries later I decided to try to fix it. I noticed that a small variable resistor was corroded and had fallen to pieces.  I was able to get an identical one from Jaycar and solder it into the printed circuit. It worked. Back on board the boat I installed it and happpily went about charging batteries and keeping an eye on them so that they didn’t overcharge (the cause of our defunct deep cycle batteries which was caused by our smart charger losing massive quantities of smartness)

I wasn’t entirely pleased with the crude and uncalibrated display and so searched aliexpress for voltmeters. 

Here’s an example: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/R1B1-Portable-Digital-Voltmeter-DC0-100V-Red-Light-LED-Panel-Voltage-Meter/1243447711.html

Total cost US$2.74. 

I bought three and housed them in a little box.  Each one goes to a different battery and I have put a switch on the common negative lead so that I can turn easily turn them off.  They are great.  

We can see how the motor alternators are working (see the Alternator saga), check how the wind generator is working and manage the dumb charger so that the batteries are kept in good condition.

All up less than $20 and a very happy outcome

THE ALTERNATOR SAGA

Last year our service battery alternator stopped working.  Unfortunately, we could only buy a replacement as the place we were in didn’t have anyone that could repair it. This year we set out, but soon noticed that the batteries weren’t getting charged (see the Battery Monitor Saga). 
So miles from nowhere and with the motor running, I took off the engine covers to have a look. All OK, but just to make sure, I pulled on each wire to see whether it was firm.  The active lead, which had a difficult-to-see terminal, was hanging loose.  The nut had fallen off (vibration).  Touching the wire on to the possible terminal created a strong spark on one and nothing on the other.  I took a punt that the alternator was working and that I wasn’t shorting it out. The new meters helped here too. 
So all I needed was a new nut. All the nuts in my little supply were too big, too small or imperial thread instead of metric.  I scoured the boat and eventually found a nut on a camera mount that worked. Off with the motor and on with the lead and nut.  The nut was tight because my sparking tests had damaged the thread, A gentle spannering solved that. 

Fingers crossed, motor on 13.5 volts on the voltmeters, an alternator purring away and batteries getting happy again. 

VATHI

We left Preveza early Friday morning and headed for one of our favourite ports, Vathi, on Meganisi Island.  Our impressions from last July were not changed. The town is a picturesque sanctuary for boats, protected from the strong northerlies with all the services and amenities you could wish for.

The esplanade near the boat

It was disappointing to discover the electricity had been discontinued because of an unpleasant dispute between the private ‘Odysseus’ marina and the local community. Apparently the town marina’s provision of electricity and water at a very reasonable price 5E-10E as opposed to the 40E charged at Odysseus was uncompetitive.

The solution, close down the town wharf!

Hopefully they’ll sort things out before we return next year.

This trip has been far less stressful than any other years.  The weather has been kinder, the wind more able to be enjoyed (not blowing in our face all the time) and we’ve had more adventures in the small towns adjacent to the ports. 

 

Hiring a motor scooter was a real plus. We zoomed up and down the valleys and mountains like a couple of teenagers, wind in the face, sharing the country lanes with mountain goats. 

Spartakori harbour

A tiny church in the middle of nowhere

Our road trips took us through the small lanes and villages of the island. You still find old women dressed in black, walking the streets carrying shopping or even sitting weaving and spinning. 

Although probably for tourists, the images and experiences were wonderful.

Meganisi is an absolutely beautiful island, yet to be exploited and spoiled by rampant tourism. The only problem for this and many of the islands in the Ionian is the temptation to allow the kitsch culture to take over.  

PREVEZA

We’ve never been totally enamoured of Preveza. Firstly because of the rather unpleasant memories of my falling off the boat onto the wharf last year (totally my own fault) and secondly it’s just not a very endearing city. We decided to moor in the Preveza marina this year instead of the town wharf, as we knew there was water and electricity on site and also the tidal swell would be much less. On arrival there was one spot left and as we tied up we were told we could only stay for a short time as this was where the charter boats came and they had priority. As it turned out it was also the only quay with water and we would have to move or raft up other boats when asked and so after 3 days we left unimpressed.

 

The marina

The town itself was a good walk away, but being health conscious ? we happily made the trip each day to shop and enjoy the cafes. The main esplanade was full of cafes and tourist shops all looking very empty and desperate for the summer crowds to start.

The main shopping street

The small lanes linking the esplanade to the main shopping street also seemed to be overflowing with empty chairs and tables with only owners and a few locals chatting, smoking and waiting.  For us the season is perfect, for the locals just another reflection of the a seasonal, tourist based economy. 

dinner at the Red Mullet

Usually we check the weather each morning but forgot to on our second trip out. As our luck would have it the rain poured down, came through our open hatches and soaked some of the bedding. We coped.

Our next stop is Vathi on Meganisi 

PARGA

Crossing from Gaios to Parga on the mainland was an absolute pleasure. We set the sails early in the run, started in a 6kt breeze and sailed at 3.5 kts. As we neared Parga the wind lifted and gusted to 15 kts as we scooted along at 6kts. David was ecstatic.

We sailed into Voulta bay next to Parga and found a perfect spot to drop anchor. Our memories of this little bay were revisited. The sea was calm, the boat rocked gently and we settled in for the night with 16 other boats.

Looking across Voulta bay to our boat anchored in the distance

Next morning we took the dinghy to shore and waited the few minutes to take the small ferry to Parga town around the corner.

The view across Parga town

The small church at the entrance to Parga

Another beautiful bougainvilla

The tourist season has not yet started and so the shops and streets were comfortably quiet.

In past visits around the middle of June, the Italian tourist invasion was in full swing with cafes full and beach umbrellas dotting the small beaches. 

Exploring the hilltop streets

Arriving early in May has certainly made a huge difference in many ways – the weather is perfect, the crowds are non-existent and there is plenty of room in the small bays and marinas.  

Our next stop is Prevesa, 4 hours south of Parga.

GAIOS

Gaios was our next stop on Paxos Island. We had a fantastic sail down the coast from Lakka hitting 6.5 kts in beautiful sunny weather. The small port was very enticing, everything was layback, no-one seemed to be in a hurry and both the locals and other yachties were extremely friendly We had a few hitches coming in to berth and people seemed to come from everywhere wanting to help us. The small town obviously is very proud of it's appearance, sweepers were out early each morning,rubbish was not to be seen and NO graff anywhere. 

The local houses are beautifully kept. We've never seen so much colour in the gardens, balconies and shops. It appeared to be bougainvilla heaven!

One of the many dockside restaurants

boys fishing next to our boat

Everywhere  were children, playing in the streets, riding bikes, fishing or just running around. We think there must have been a population explosion in the last few years or the Greeks just love having kids around.




The town even hung a  huge painted canvas over a not-so-good looking building to improve it's appearance!












We thoroughly enjoyed our stay in Gaios and felt very sad to leave.

The view across the channel

LAKKA

After Syvota we decided to move across from the Greek mainland to a tranquil little bay on the island of Paxos,  Lakka. The 3 hour sail was calm and steady with a 9kt headwind into which we made 4kts.

 After searching for the opening we found the most amazingly sheltered cove. When we arrived just after lunch we were surprised to find only one or two other yachts anchored, but by mid afternoon another dozen arrived, scattered across the 3m deep, bright aqua, crystal clear water. It was an incredibly eerie feeling floating above the clear sandy bottom.

We took the dinghy into the tiny wharf and town at the end of the bay, had the usual coffee/Amstel and explored the few narrow streets surrounding the port.

 Lakka is a little beauty in the Ionian that is much loved by passing yachties.The streets are beautifully kept with bright bougainvillas on just about every fence and wall.

Tavernas ready for the summer crowds

We stayed just one night, gently rocking to sleep in peaceful silence.