CAMEROTA

More incredible rocks on the coast

 After a very pleasant journey from Acciaroli we arrived at another small but delightful marina. The town was next to the harbor and provided all the services and gear we needed. So far each of the towns we’ve visited along this part of Italy have been amazing. The people, the food and landscape is something we did not expect and each stop seems better than the last. 

The weather continues to be brilliant – mornings cool, midday sunny and evenings warm till bedtime. 

We’ve loved walking the streets and checking out the coffee bars. The espressos are to die for. We just don’t have the same taste at home!

One of the locals

Old and new yachts being restored

 

Every now and then we have a little problem with some part of the boat. Just enough to stress us out and wonder why on earth we’re doing this. Anyway here’s the latest mechanical saga:

THE BILGE

So we are motoring along when the bilge pump starts to operate.  You know this because there is a stream of water about 2 metres long coming out from the side of the boat.

This has happened only once before and I was able to trace it to the fact that I did not close the hot water service drain cock fully.

I know that the odd air switch, a jabsco air switch device that has a small glass bottle the size of a shot glass and with glass as thin as a test tube connected by a tube to a switch(I have since found out that it is a diaphragm switch) and it will turn on, but it doesn't want to turn off.  This is not great drama because in 2 years, it has only operated twice. I have learned that if I remove the tube from the glass phial and suck on it, the pump will turn off. So this is what I did after the bilge had drained enough.

Fifteen minutes later, the bilge pump starts up again.  MMM this is odd.  The water tastes salty and so I reckon it must be a poor fit for the brand new bearing and stuffing box that I had installed at Solenzara.  I'll have to write to Nicolas Spies and have a chat.  After about 5 times of pump operating and my going down to uncover the bilge, suck on the pipe to turn off the pump and then put the pipe cautiously back on the rather thin phial neck, I start to ponder why this is happening.  I play around with the 6 or more plastic pipes that sit in and around the bilge and, bingo, there is a 6mm clear pipe that heads off towards the engine that has a small flow of water coming from it.  There's the culprit; maybe a tap left partially open (there are 6 drainage points on the engine, but we didn't drain last year (maybe Nicolas opened one)).  We motored on and arrived in Pozzuoli.  Later that night, we opened up the engine compartment only to find that the little pipe went straight past the engine and into an area that contains the electrics and cabling and which is in the central bedroom.  After opening this area up, a job I have done > 50 times, we discover that the little pipe is connected to a grey object that has two large pipes connected to it.  This is the anti siphon valve for the motor cooling system.  It is designed to allow air into the system when the motor turns off and so stop it from siphoning sea water all of the time.  Apparently the valve was stuck and this allowed cooling seawater to escape through the little pipe into the bilge. After a search of the internet, we decided that we would have to buy a new anti-siphoning valve. 

After a night of cogitation, I decided to blow air and water up the pipe (with my mouth) to see if it would dislodge the crap and allow the valve to work.  Sure did! No more leaking anti siphoning valve and no more bilge pumping; or so we thought.

Off we went to Salerno and just to be sure, I checked the bilge and the anti-siphoning pipe as we travelled.  There was no leaking but the bilge was a little fuller than I had left it after spending 1/2 an hour sucking up water with a sponge.

At Salerno, I decided to spend another hour removing every drop of water just to see if I could find another leak. The water I sucked up was fresh and so we weren't sinking.  Much watching and waiting eventually brought to light that there was a small leak that was coming from the hot water service pressure relief valve.  This can get a bit of crap in it and allow water past. A few lifts of the valve relief arm refilled the bilge but didn't stop the  small leak.  After much experimenting, I tried tapping the valve shaft to drive it firmer onto the valve seat and the leak stopped.

Problems solved!  We left the bilge open for the day to dry it out.  When we came back, it was dry but the small compartment to the side had water in it even though I had dried it out in the morning. Once more I sponged the excess water out; it was fresh.  Close inspection revealed that it was oozing out of a joint, which had nothing to do with any of the previous matters.  I checked other compartments and found a little more fresh water.  Maybe we had a leaking water tank. I opened up compartments but the tanks looked fine.  All I could put it down to was exuberance in my pressure washing the exterior, which forced water into places it shouldn't be or maybe it is when I fill the water tanks.  We filter all drinking water with ultra fine filters as well as chlorinate all drinking water.  The first filter is in the sail locker and, occasionally, when I remove the hose, I spill water.  This collects in the hull and slowly oozes down to the bilge.

That's as far as I have got so far. Boating is a complicated craft. You really do have to keep your wits about you. All of these issues could have just as easily happened on a brand new boat. Problems like this arise all of the time and challenge the sleuth in me to work through the clues logically in order to come to a satisfactory resolution.

ACCIAROLI

 As we are trying to outrun the next bout of bad weather we are moving as fast as possible down the western side of Italy. So far we’ve covered more than 200 miles and have another 120 to get around the toe. Apparently the wind in the Straight of Messina between Sicily and Italy can be terrible and as we’ve had one unpleasant experience we don’t want another.

The Acciaroli marina

We pulled into Acciaroli just after lunch and settled easily into a berth. As the afternoon passed, more and more yachts came in and we had the opportunity to share stories, compare marinas and get personal knowledge about the best places to go. 

Along the wharf

We thought we’d had a difficult time until we heard an older English couple’s story. They had no internet or mobile, no weather info, their motor was overheating and they looked like they were in their 70’s. They sailed down the east side of Italy for 50 miles, struck a storm, turned round and went back 50 miles.

Acciaroli is a beautiful, smallish marina, with great service, toilets and showers 5 mts from the boat and the most picturesque town centre. 

The town recently won a tourism award. The streets looked so beautifully kept!

The beach around the corner

We walked all over the town and were surprised to find hundreds of people bathing in the next cove.

We pulled out early next morning having really enjoyed our stay.

SALERNO and POMPEI

Another beautiful 2 days …….

The sun was a warm 22^o as we left the Naples Bay and headed out for our next stop Salerno. Cruising in such beautiful weather is such a contrast to some of the challenging times we’ve had so far. By lunchtime it was 25^o, the swell was minimal and out went the genoa, increasing our speed to 7knots. Dave was in heaven.

The most beautiful city gardens

Salerno is quite a delightful city. There appears to be an attempt by the city fathers to improve the appearance and culture of the city. Parks and gardens are well maintained and the streets feel clean and well maintained.

We explored the city and then spent the next day revisiting the Pompei ruins.

The bakery

 

The actual ruins themselves were fantastic. We walked all over the ancient city enjoying a glimpse into the ancient Pompeian’s lives and being amazed at the depth of design and artwork in the villas.

Our travelling to and from the ruins was not so spectacular. Firstly, we decided to take to bus from Salerno, not realizing the journey went up and down and around every imaginable mountain in the area. The whole journey lasted 2 hours. Never again. The bus at least, stopped outside the ruins and so this was ok. After our 2hr wander through the ancient city we exited at a gate on the opposite side to the entrance. Big mistake! No bus in sight so once again we walked for an hour, down to the Pompei train station and waited for the delayed train. 

Two local fishermen packed up and going home

  
The fast journey home and a pizza for tea in the city ended a great, but very tiring, day. 

Looking back to Salerno

POZZUOLI and NAPLES

Approaching Pozzuoli and Naples

At last we feel confident that the weather has really settled down and poses no risk, even though it can be a little too calm for David's liking!

Our run to POZZUOLI was uneventful although our constant checking the bilge was really annoying.The more we spend time on the water the more we realise that life as a sailor is not meant to be without it's little trials. There is ALWAYS something that goes wrong and so much time trying to solve it.

POZZUOLI is a fairly depressed outer suburb/town near Naples. We had no idea what the marina would be like and ended up in the very upmarket Marina servicing the 50ft cruisers. The area around the marina was pretty seedy and grubby but we managed to work out how to get around and spent the 2 days going to and from Naples by train and bus, exploring museums, markets and of course, more churches.

BIG rum babas

We'd heard that it was unsafe, violent etc, but we had no problems, in fact we found the locals helpful and friendly. The fact that we were back safe in the marina by 8pm may have had something to do with it!


 
The degree of excess and wealth in the many churches was overwhelming. The contrast between the rich and poor centuries ago must have been huge and from what we could see is still evident today.

The rum BaBa cakes

One of the fish stalls in a side street

The Rum BaBas are amazing! They originated in Naples and so they must be very proud of them.Some are so huge and there are even mad looking cakes made from them.

The best imaginable coffee is so cheap (1euro) and fresh vegetables, fruit and salami, very affordable. We eat well, and have found the lunch menu, (first course pasta,  veal main course, coffee and beer) incredibly good value at 6 or 7euros ($8-$9).

The amazing Pasta shop

  








Our legs have taken a beating with walking so much and so we gave in just this once and took the "Hop on Hop off" bus.

The streets of Naples are cobbled, narrow and full of shops, markets and people. We had a great time exploring the coffee bars, music shops and dress shops, although my taste for sparkly, studded gear has definitely disappeared!!


And then of course are the multitude of gift shops selling everything from images of the queen, footy stars and local heroes.

The pope leading the throng of miniature people

So many small models of everything imaginable

The 'tripe' shop

Looking back to Naples

We left Naples feeling very different from the last time we visited in the 80's. Although the streets are still full of rubbish and the population is still smoking itself to an early death, the city made us welcome and prepared to even visit another time..............

SAN FELICE CIRCEO AND GAETA

After a rather long stay at Porto Di Roma we faced our demons and set sail for the next port south – San Felice Cerceo, the 50 mile sail taking 7 ^½ hours  in mostly fine conditions.

Approaching Circeo

The long awaited good weather was a wonderful change from the nasty Mistral that nearly had both of us giving up and becoming landlubbers!

We arrived at Circeo mid afternoon and after rather hastily being given a ‘bad’ mooring (as the secretary called it) we headed straight for another strong Italian coffee. 

The marina

We asked about a meal at the local restaurant and were given a hand written on the spot menu. Apparently all the locals know what is 'normale' and don't need a menu.

Circeo is clearly a quaint little town that appears to have been adopted by the wealthy Italian and Russian tourists. The pontoons were very rudimentary though many of the boats moored were extremely impressive. More than once our depth sounder read ‘0’ in the badly silted up harbour. Still, we made it in and out ok.

Next morning we set off for Gaeta.

Approaching the Gaeta Bluff

 

The NATO Naval headquarters at Gaeta

We arrived after another uneventful day (wind 5 -10 kts, temp 23^o and were given assistance to enter a much nicer berth. David has nearly perfected reversing and so we had no hitches getting into the space.

Our berth 4th on the right (blue Genoa)

Gaeta is a delightful little town. Just big enough to have all the services you’d want, yet quaint enough to make you feel at home. The cobbled stone streets of the old part of the city were bustling with activity in the late afternoon, tiny shops selling everything from fruit to home made pasta and Italian high fashion???

We thoroughly enjoyed our short stay in the town and could live here in another life. Once again the coffee was beautiful and sooo cheap -1euro. 

When we left Gaeta we stopped to get diesel from the 'Gazoil station'. The attendant seemed to have not a care in the world as he rolled a cigarette and took his chances.

 

CROSSING THE TYRRHENIAN SEA

After a pleasant stay in Solenzara, and after much careful planning, we left at 10.30am Sunday morning, to cross the 125 miles from Solenzara to Porto Di Roma. Snow had fallen on the hills above the marina, the air was crisp and the day looked fine.

We set out, and for the first 20 or so miles we scudded along at 7 knots using only the main and genoa. Gradually the Mistral wind and swell picked up and the rest of the journey was challenging to say the least.

After a cold and wet night, we arrived in Porto Di Roma Monday morning at 9am thankful for a safe haven and relatively calm waters.

Porto Di Roma is a huge tourist marina that appears to be very popular for the local Romans during the summer season.  Facilities are great, shops are plentiful around the marina and the nearby restaurants give good affordable service. We spent most mornings enjoying excellent coffee and croissants at the bar for approximately $3 total for both of us.  Happy hour gave much the same sort of pleasure ($6 for a huge glass of wine or beer and all you can eat buffet). Eating has been a highlight of our stay in Rome!

We found a “tappezzeria” at the marina and were able to complete the new seating for the dining area of the boat. My blue covers are now a great improvement on the old worn out pink covers!

Each day has been spent making small trips into Rome, doing boat maintenance and generally taking it easy.  Walking around grubby streets and standing in lines for ages can become daunting and this is only the beginning of the tourist season! Still, we did all the touristy things – Colosseum, Spanish steps etc but this time we gave the Vatican a miss – just too hard. 

The Steps

The ultimate new age dad with child and toilet paper on the back

Dave (blue cap) heading towards the Colosseum

One highlight of our visit to Rome was to see the Rose festival in the gardens adjacent to Circo Massimo. Seeing so many in bloom brought back old OB Flat memories.

The entrance to the 'Roseto Communale'

The view from the rose garden across to Circo Massimo

We avoided the temptation to visit every art gallery this time except one - 'The Modern Art Gallery of Rome'.  All fairly ordinary but one  triptych by Tato was interesting - showed the stages of Futurism.

We now have a reliable internet provider – ‘Wind’ which gives us great reception at a comparable Australian price. It should also work in Greece.

The weather has not been as expected even by local standards and so we’ve had to remain in port for longer than expected. The Mistral is easing and we’re hoping to leave tomorrow (Sunday) for Anzio and Circeo, weather permitting